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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.